ALPS 2012

Note: All tours except Monte Zebru and M. B. de Cheilon in solo climb without rope.

This is a personal philosophy which developed over decades now and should not be a general example.

For accidents caused by imitation no responsibility can be assumed.

Kellespitze (2240m) and Gehrenspitze (2164m)

Austria-Tannheimer Mountains in Tirol, 26.5.12

Day tour from Nesselwängle, easy climb (grade I) but partly very exposed hard snow. Crossing of Schneidspitze (2009m)

Kellespitze seen from b. Schneidspitze

Gehrenspize summit

Gehrenspitze seen from Schneidspitze

Gimpel seen from Kellesp. summit

Sonneck (2260m)

Austria-Tirol, Wilder Kaiser, 28.5.12

Day tour from Scheffau, easy climb. Route crosses the Kopfkraxen (2178m)

Sunrays above Ellmauer Halt

view to NO

panoramic view to E - Ellmauer. Halt (left) to Treffauer (right)

Scheffauer with sun spotlight

Hoher Ifen (2230m)

Germany-Allgäuer Alps, 16.6.12

Day tour from Auenhut, E-W crossing, easy climb, partly steep snow on E side.

NE-side ascent

spring flowers

summit view

view back to summit

Rastkogel (2762m)

Austria-Tirol-Tuxer Alps, 18.6.12

Day tour from Schöneben, easy climb.

small lakes are still covered with snow

view to summit

dense flowering alpine vegetation

summit view to Olperer range

flowers with Olperer behind

alpine rose

flowering meadows

Solstice celebration around Ehrwald

Austria-Tirol, 23.6.12

Evening views from the valley.

view to Sonnenspitze

view to Zugspitze

view to Mieminger range

view to Mieminger range

Piz Kesch (3417m)

Switzerland-highest mountain of Albula Alps, 24.6.12

Day tour from Albulapass, easy climb (grade I-II), partly steep snow.

view to Piz Bernina at sunrise

view to Bernina range at sunrise

first view to the summit from Porta d'Es-cha

view to E from final rock ascent

view down to Porta d'Es-cha

E view down to ascending route via Porchabella galcier

summit view to N

summit view to Keschnadel ridge

view to Bernina range

view to Bernina range

other group ascending

on the glacier again

view back from glacier

back to Albulapass

Königsspitze (3851m)

Italy-Ortler Alps, 27.-28.6.12

1,5 day tour from Rifugio Forni, easy climb but famous due to very steep and dangerous 400m ice flank prone to many deadly accidents.

sunrise seen from upper shoulder

upper summit ridge with N-face to the right


summit view to Ortler

view down the famous N-face

summit view to S-Ortleralps

view to W

S-Ortleralps, behind Presanella and Adamello

summit ridge view to E

summit view to SE-Ortleralps and Dolomites

back view to summit from upper shoulder

view to Cevedale

view back to Königsspitze

marmots are common there

alpine rose

Schrakogel (3135m)

Austria-Stubaier Alps, 30.6.12

Day tour from Timmelsjoch, easy climb (ridge partly grade I-II).

Ascending Schrakogel from N, then following complete ridge via Jochköpfl (3143m) and Timmelsjochberg (2970m), partly snowy with loose rocks.

shortly above Timmelsjoch


Schrakogel with frozen lake in front

Schrakogel summit

Mittl. Sonnenkogel (3130m) - Östl. Sonnenkogel (3163m)

Austria-Tirol, Ötztaler Alps, Kaunergrat, 5.7.12

Day tour from Trenkwald, crossing from NW to SW via ridge, easy climb (partly grade II), but some loose rocks.

morning view to Verpeilspitze

M. Sonnenkogel summit, view to Verpeilspitze and Schwabenkopf

M. Sonnenkogel panoramic view to N - Gsallkopf, Rofelewand, Totenkark., Ö. Sonnenkogel (from Left to right)

view to Verpeilspitze and Schwabenkopf

view to Rofelewand

view to Hochrinnegg and Gsallkopf

alpine rose


Pitztaler Urkund (3201m)

Austria-Tirol, Ötztaler Alps, 8.7.12

Day tour from Mittelberg, easy climb but extremely brittle rock (grade I+) with huge loose boulders alongside the long ridge.

morning view to Taschach glacier

Taschach glacier

Pitztaler Urkund with ascending ridge to the right

view back

meeting a Ibex group is a nice experience in very seldom visited areas

playin Ibex


only one way via the ridge - shall we give way ?

view from the summit

alpine roses


Monte Zebru (3735m)

Italy, Ortler Alps, 15.7.-16.7.12

2 day tour from Valfurva St. Antonio, ascent to Rifugio V. Alpini, next day summit,

easy climb (grade I), but time-consuming crevassed glacier with trackless new snow and also due to fresh snow delicate, exposed summit ridge.

view form hut to Confinale range

at dawn below Thurwieserspitze

S-Ortleralps at sunrise

view to summit direction

Thurwieserspitze to the W

summit ridge

summit ridge with Königsspitze behind

Confinale range below

Rainer following on upper summit ridge

summit view to S

summit view to SE

view to Königsspitze (climbed 3 weeks before)

View to Königsspitze and S-Ortleralps

view to Ortler

back to V. Alpini hut

view back to Monte Zebru from Stilfser Joch road

Mont Blanc de Cheilon (3869m)

Switzerland-Walliser Alps,22.7.-23.7.12

2 day tour from Le Chargeur - Lac des Dix.

Ascent to Cab. des Dix, next day climbing summit via W-ridge, easy climb (grade II) with glacier sections.

Le Chargeur chapel

view to La Sale

Cab. des Dix

view from hut to E

M.B. de Cheilon N-face

view to E

alpine flowers

view to Dent Blanche


evening light

evening light

evening light

evening light

Gd. Combin in first sunlight


view to E from lower W-ridge

view to N with Le Pleureur

view to Matterhorn

view to upper W-ridge

summit ridge

final part

view to W, G. Combin and M. Blanc

climbers at the summit ridge

climbers at the summit ridge

SW view

view down the N-face

Weisshorn and Dent Blanche to the E

view back M.B. de Cheilon

Mont Blanc (4810m)

France - Mont Blanc range, highest mountain of the Alps, 31.7.-1.8.12

2 day tour, normal route from L. Houches. day: night drive to Chamonix, cable car and train to Mt. Lachat (2100m), ascent via Tete Rousse and R. du Gouter to Vallot bivouac (4362m). day: Bosses-ridge to summit at night (first one this day), sunrise on top (icy wind), descent to Bellevue and drive home.

Easy climb (grade I after grand coloir), grand coloir in good condition, spectacular sunset and rise, many so called aspirants slowed down descent considerably.

morning view to Mt. Blanc

view down to Chamonix

view to M.B. de Tacul

campsite near R. du Gouter

view down to Aiguile de Bionassay

view to M. B. summit

shortly before Vallot bivouac

view down to Aiguille du Midi

view to SW from Vallot b.

Aiguille du Midi at sunset


view to Aiguille Verte at sunset

Chamonix to the lower left

sunset colors

view to Mt. Maudit

M. Blanc summit in last sunlight

Mt. Maudit

view to Aiguille Verte

Mt. Maudit with earths shadow

last moment of sunset

Mt. Blanc summit at dawn

sunrise seen from Mt. Blanc summit

view to S in first sunlight

summit in first light with mountain shadow triangle behind

view to S in first sunlight

view down to Mt. Maudit

summit in first light with mountain shadow triangle behind

leaving summit...

and walking down Bosses ridge

view to Mt. Maudit and Aiguille Verte


chain of climbers ascending Bosses ridge

view down to Chamonix

passing Vallot b.

view back to summit

colors of ice

view from R. du Gouter

view back to Gran Coloir

after abundant ice and rock back into vegetation

Augstenspitzen (3225m + 3228m) - N. Chalausspitze (3161m)

Austria, Tirol - Silvretta Alps, 12.8.12

Day tour from Galtür/Scheiben Alm. Ascent via Chalaus glacier and W flank, easy climb (partly grade I), sometimes strenuous.

morning view to Jamspitze

view from Augstensp. to Fluchthorn

view from Chalaussp. to central Silvretta range

Chalaus glacier

Johannisberg (3460m) - Hohe Riffel (3338m)

Austria - Hohe Tauern, Glocknergruppe, 15.8.12

Day tour from Rudolfshütte. Easy climb (very small part grade I+), normally impressive landscape but unaesthetic due to strong glacier retreat.

view from Johannisb. to Grossglockner

view to Wiesbachhorn

Pasterze glacier remnant below

Hohe Riffel summit with Johannisberg behind

Piz Fliana (3281m)

Switzerland - Silvretta Alps, 20.9.12

Day tour, ascent from Guarda, crossing from SE to SW, easy climb (grade I), partly icy with fresh snow.

view N to Piz Buin

summit view to Verstanclahorn

view to Piz Linard

colors of Fall

Piz Sesvenna (3204m) - Muntpitschen (3161m)

Switzerland, Engadin - Sesvenna range, 23.9.12

Day tour, ascent from S-charl, crossing from S to N via Foratrida (3136m) and Muntpitschen, easy climb (grade I+), descent via Sesvennaglacier.

morning mist above Val Sesvenna

Ortler to the SE

Sesvenna summit

summit view to Ortler Alps

summit view to Bernina range

Sesvenna summit with Ortler behind

view down to Muntpitschen ridge

view back to Piz Sesvenna from Muntpitschen summit

Muntpitschen summit

lake to the N of Piz Sesvenna

returning to S-charl


Tschengelser Hochwand (3375m)

Italy, Ortler Alps, 28.9.12

Day tour from Sulden, ascent and descent on normal route, easy climb, partly deep snow.

Königsspitze N-face in first light

Ortler in first light

view to Königsspitze

view to Suldenspitze

view to main range - Königssp., Zebru, Ortler

T. Hochwand summit

S-view to Angelus and Vertainspitze, note active rock glacier below

NE view to Weisskugel

view to E

NE view to Ötztaler Alps

NE view to Ötztaler Alps with Hint. Schwärze

view to main range - Königssp., Zebru, Ortler

Friedrichskopf (3134m)

Austria - Hohe Tauern, Schobergroup, 3.10.12

Day tour from Döllach/Ranach, easy due to fixed rope (grade I), partly exposed climb.

colors of Fall

colors of Fall

shortly below the summit

Friedrichskopf summit

summit view to Petzeck and Georgskopf

summit view to Grossglockner

view to Georgskopf

many small lakes...

...near to the descent route

colors of Fall

Cima de Piazzi (3439m)

Italy, highest mountain of the Livigno Alps, 6.10.12

Day tour, ascent from Arnoga with mountain bike to Passo de Verva, then SW flank and E-ridge. Easy climb (E-ridge exposed, grade II).

Dangerous due to heavy rockfall caused by meling of fresh snow and unavoidable crossing of coloirs.

above Passo de Verva

beautiful lakes, behind ascending route

strong colored lakes

view back

final E ridge to summit

view back to ascending route

glaciated N-flank

Bernina range to the W

Cima de Piazzi summit

N-side glacier

Mt. Disgrazia to the SW

view to S

view down to Passo de Verva

Cima de Piazzi N-side

Schareck (3122m)

Austria, Hohe Tauern - Goldberg range, 12.10.10

Day tour, ascent from Mölltaler Glacier, crossing complete ridge from Fragant Scharte via Schareck, Baumbachspitze (3105m), Strabelebenkopf (3012m) and Weinflaschenkopf (3006m) down to S, easy climb (grade I+), but often deep snow.

lake below Fragant Scharte

ridge behind Herzog Ernst, Schareck summit behind

Schareck summit

summit view to S

view to Grossglockner

view to Ankogel and Hochalmspitze

Baumbachspitze summit

final aim Weinflaschenkopf to the upper right

view to Sonnblick summit

Ödkarspitzen (2739m, 2743m, 2711m) - Birkkarspitze (2749m)

Austria, Tirol - highest mountain of Karwendel range 20.10. - 21.10.12, 2 day tour. day: ascent from Scharnitz with mountainbike to Kasten Alm, S-ascent to Birkkar bivouac, crossing of Ödkarspitzen, night in Birkkar b. day: night ascent to Birkkarspitze, sunrise on the top, descent and back to Scharnitz. Easy climb, but partly icy and exposed.

ascending Birkkar


N side of Birkkarspitze

Birkkar bivouac

Birkkarspitze seen from Östl. Ödkarspitze

view back to Östl. Ödkarspitze

W view from Hoher Ödkarspitze

W view from Hoher Ödkarspitze

evening light

Kaltwasserkarspitze with Grossglockner and Venediger behind

mountain shadow triangle with Birkkarspitze to the right

mountain shadow triangle

Kaltwasserkarspitze with Grossglockner and Venediger behind

view to Birkkarspitze


earths shadow above Ödkarspitzen before sunrise

sunrise colors seen from Birkkarspitze summit

mountain shadow triangle

view to Zugspitze

Seekarspitze in first light

view to Zugspitze

mountain shadow triangle

view to SW

Birkkarspitze summit

view to NE

Isar river near to its origin

Großer Rettenstein (2366m)

Austria, Tirol - Kitzbüheler Alps 25.11.12

Day tour, ascent from Aschau, NE-ascent very snowy near top, but foottraces. Main summit easy climb (grade I+).

Wilder Kaiser in first sunlight

view to Grossglockner

panoramic view of SW ridge

easier touristic summit


view to main summit

rock jag on SE ridge