ALPS 2013

Note: All tours except Piz Palü and Jungfrau in solo climb without rope, except for rappeling.

This is a personal philosophy which developed over decades now and should not be a general example.

For accidents caused by imitation no responsibility can be assumed.

Säuling (2047m)

Austria/Germany-Ammergauer Alps in Tirol, 5.5.13

Day tour from Pflach, easy climb.

S-view with Chamois

ground fog to the north

S-view from summit

descending on W-side

Ulrichshorn (2155m) and Gr. Rothorn (2409m)

Austria-Tirol, Loferer Steinberge, 9.5.13

Day tour from St. Ulrich, strenuous due to abundant and partly steep snow without trace. Detour to Rothörndl (2395m)

below Ulrichshorn

panoramic view to main range with Rothorn to the left

view from Rothörndl summit back to Gr. Rothorn


Birnhorn (2634m)

Austria-Salzburg, highest mountain of Leoganger Steinberge, 18.5.13

Day tour from Ullach, easy climb, partly steep snow on E side. Detours to Kuchelhorn (2505m), Hochzint (2251m) and W. Mitterspitze (2160m)

view back to Passauer Hut and Mitterspitzen

Birnhorn above

Birnhorn summit

view to Kuchelhorn, my next destination

view from Kuchelhorn back to Birnhorn

natural arch called Melkerloch

view to Hochzint, my following destination

climbing fixed rope route to W. Mitterspitze

Thaneller (2343m)

Austria-Tirol-Lechtaler Alps, 5.6.13

Day tour from Berwang, easy climb with abundant snow

early morning light

view to ascent route

shortly before the summit

panoramic view to E with Zugspitze behind

Gr. Krottenkopf (2657m)

Austria-Tirol, highest mountain of Allgäuer Alps, 8.6.13

Day tour from Holzgau, easy climb with abundant and partly steep, hard and exposed snow (crampons required) without traces

morning S-view to Wetterspitze

final ridge to Krottenkopf summit

E-view with my traces to the right

S-view while descending

Hochvogel (2593m)

Austria-Tirol, Allgäuer Alps, 18.6.13

Day tour from Hinterhornbach (S-route), easy climb with some steeper rock parts

view from summit to S

E-view while descending on the same route

view to S

spring flowers

Dachstein (2995m)

Austria-Oberösterr./Steiermark, main summit of Dachstein Alps, 19.6.13

Day tour from Dachstein-road, normally easy climb (fixed ropes), but dangerous due to partly steep and unreliable snow, especially to Huner Scharte without any traces and fixed ropes buried under abundant snow.

Detour to Kl. Gjaidstein (2735m) and Hoher Gjaidstein (2794m)

view to S-wall and Dachstein summit

view to summit from Hallstätter Glacier below

view back to final ascent route

view down to Hallstätter Glacier

summit ahead

S view down to Niederer Dachstein

summit view to E

view back to summit with ascent route

Wildseeloder (2118m)

Austria-Tirol, Kitzbüheler Alps, 27.6.13

Day tour from Fieberbrunn, easy walk but weak fresh snow. Additional crossing of Henne (2078m) and Marokka (2019m)

Ice forming

view from summit to E, Henne summit above lake

alpine salamander

alpine rose

Piz Casnil (3189m) and Cima di Castello (3379m)

Switzerland-Graubünden, highest mountain of central Bergell Alps, 30.6.-1.7.13

2 day tour from Albigna lake day: Piz Casnil S-ridge, easy but exposed climb (ridge partly grade II+) with abundant snow without traces, night in Albigna Hut. day: Cima di Castello normal route from N, easy climb due to perfect snow conditions with traces.                                          

Albigna lake

reaching Pass da Casnil N

view to Piz Badile

view to Torrone range

first sunlight while ascending Castello

W-view to Sciora range

S-view from summit to Monte Disgrazia

Madonna statue on the very top of Castello

summit view to Bernina range

descent route ahead

view back to summit

back to Albigna lake

Piz Palü (3900m) - Piz Bernina (4048m) - Piz Zupo (3996m) - Piz Argient (3945m)

Switzerland-Graubünden, Bernina Alps, highest mountain of Eastern Alps, 5.7.-7.7.13

3 day tour from Diavolezza day: crossing to Furcola Trovat and tent night near the glacier.                                    day: crossing of Piz Palü E (3882m), Piz Palü Main (3900m) and Piz Spinas (3823m),        

easy climb (Spinas ridge grade II), tent night near Marco e Rosa Hut.     day: Piz Bernina (4048m) via Spalla ridge, detour with crossing of Piz Zupo and Piz Argient,

    descent via Fortzezza ridge, easy but long climb (few parts grade II+), weak snow in afternoon.

sunset seen from Furcola Trovat

first light on Piz Bernina and Piz Morteratsch

view to Piz Morteratsch

view to N

view to E with distant Ortler range

final ridge to Piz Palü E

climbing Spinas ridge with view back to Piz Palü

W-view to Piz Zupo (left) and Piz Bernina (right)

bypassing Crast' Agüzza

approaching Thunderstorm with lightning

Thunderstorm at sunrise

Thunderstorm at sunrise

with Piz Zupo to the left

first sunlight with Piz Palü to the right

from left to right: Piz Zupo-Argient-Crast'Agüzza

Thorsten following on Spalla ridge

eary morning view to E

Thorsten following on Spalla ridge

panoramic view from Piz Bernina to S

view from Piz Argient back to Piz Zupo

view back to Piz Palü

Schermer Spitze (3117m) and Kirchenkogel (3115m)

Austria-Tirol, Ötztaler Alps, 26.7.13

Day tour from Hochgurgl, easy climb but brittle rock (grade I-II), crossing of the whole ridge.

morning view to Nederkogel

Schermer Spitze summit

view to Hochfirst

approaching Kirchenkogel

Galenstock (3586m)

Switzerland, Urner Alps, 27.7.-28.7.13

1,5 day tour from Furkapass, useless night ascent due to bad weather, subrise clouded out,

easy climb, mostly ice and snow, but time-consuming crevassed Rhoneglacier and partly dense fog.

waiting at the summit for 2 hours without sight

improving weather while descending

Rhone Glacier crevasse

view back to Rhone Glacier

Mönch (4107m) - Jungfrau (4158m) - Walcherhorn (3692m)

Switzerland-Berner Alps, 1.8.-3.8.13

3 day tour from Jungfraujoch day: Mönch evening ascent, easy, somehow exposed climb (partly grade -II), tent night on Aletschglacier near Sphinx day: Jungfrau morning ascent, easy, partly exposed and steep climb (grade I), again tent night at the same place day: Walcherhorn night ascent (resigning Fiescherhorn due to partly bad weather), easy climb                                 

view to Jungfrau from kl. Scheidegg

view to Jungfrau from Mönch S ridge

on the way to Mönch summit

view down to Aletschglacier

panoramic view from Mönch summit,

from left to right:

Eiger, Wetterhorn, Schreckhorn,

Fiescherhorn, Finsteraarhorn,

Grünhorn, Aletschhorn, Jungfrau

Finsteraarhorn behind

Eiger (left) and Wetterhorn

Jungfrau and Sphinx


Schreckhorn and Lauteraarhorn


earths shadow rising

Grünhorn with Mönch shadow to the right

Fiescherhörner and Finsteraarhorn

Jungfrau summit above

view to Eiger (left) and Mönch (right)

view to W

Rottalhorn below

view to Aletschhorn

panoramic view from Jungfrau summit,

from left to right:

Eiger, Mönch, Schreckhorn,

Fiescherhorn, Finsteraarhorn,

Grünhorn, Aletschglacier, Aletschhorn

view to Grünhorn

summit cornice of Rottalhorn

Thorsten following direct descent route

morning view to Aletschhorn

Walcherhorn summit with Mönch behind

Fiescherhorn to the S

passing Trugberg

our campsite below Sphinx

Mt. Blanc du Tacul (4248m) - Mont Maudit (4465m)

- Aiguille de Rochefort (4001m) - Dôme de Rochefort (4015m)

France - Mont Blanc range, 10.8.-12.8.13

3 day tour, via Aiguille du Midi. day: drive to Chamonix, cable car to A.d.Midi, Col du Midi tent night.                                                                      day: NW face night ascent to Mt. Blanc du Tacul, easy climb with one vertical crevasse step and exposed, icy summit rocks,

      afterward Mont Maudit, very strenuous climb due to strong wind and snowdrift, one part 50° (fixed rope buried under snow)

and back to A.d.Midi, transfer to Helbronner, Col du Geant tent night.                                                                 day: famous Rochefort ridge to Aiguille de Rochefort and Dôme de Rochefort, mainly easy but exposed climb                    

(grade II, 2 steps more demanding), back to A.d.Midi and cable car down, driving home.                                              

Aiguille du Midi view to Mt. Blanc

leaving Aiguille du Midi station

view back to Aiguille du Midi

approaching Col du Midi

Col du Midi camp with M.B.d.Tacul NW face behind

my tent

sunset view

M.B.d.Tacul in evening light, camp to the lower right

evening view to Aiguille Verte

Gran Combin to the E


Matterhorn in far distance

view to Grand Jourasses range

Grand Jourasses with summit cloud

cloud shape signalizing strong wind

dawn view back to A.du Midi

Mont Blanc gets the first sunlight

sunrise at the summit of M.B.d. Tacul

Mt. Blanc summit

view to M. Maudit, my next destination

climbers on top of rock spire

Aiguille Blanche de Peuterey

M.B.d.Tacul summit cornice

view down toA. d. Midi

summit of M.B.d. Tacul

view down to A. d. Midi

heading to Mont Maudit

Devils ridge with Grand Jourasses behind

steep part to Col below M. Maudit

reaching ridge to M. Maudit

final ridge to M. Maudit

M. Maudit summit view panorama to E

M. Maudit summit view panorama to W,

Mont Blanc behind

Devils ridge seen from M. Maudit descent

Devils rigde on the way back

stormy conditions

view from A.d.Midi to next destination

view to Mer de Glace glacier

Dent du Geant view from my Col du Geant campsite

view from Col du Geant

view from Col du Geant

Dent du Geant view at sunset

M. Maudit at sunrise

M.B.d. Tacul at sunrise

Mont Blanc at sunrise

view to Col du Midi

beginning of Rochefort ridge

Dent du Geant in morning light

other climbers following

view down to Mer de Glace

view to Mont Mallet

final part of Rochefort ridge to Dôme de Rochefort

Dôme de Rochefort summit view to Gran Jourasses

Dôme de Rochefort view to N

view back to Dôme de Rochefort

crossing Aiguille de Rochefort on the way back

back view on Rochefort ridge

back view to Rochefort ridge

back view to Rochefort ridge

back view to Rochefort ridge

on the way to A.d.Midi, Montblanc behind

on the way to A.d.Midi, Tour Ronde behind

view back to M.B.d.Tacul

Bishorn (4153m)

Switzerland, Wallis, 15.8.-16.8.13

2 day tour from Zinal day: drive to Zinal and ascent to Col de Tracuit, perfect tent night near Glacier.                                      day: night ascent to Bishorn, sunrise at the summit, descending the same way. Easy climb but partly crevassed.

Obergabelhorn and Besso



Deent Blanche at sunset

dawn shortly below summit

sunrise at the Bishorn summit

Weisshorn at sunrise

Monte rosa range

Weisshorn N-ridge with Dent Blanche behind

Weisshorn in early sunlight


view to Mischabel range

summit view to E

view to Pointe Burnaby

Pointe Burnaby view down to Brunegghorn

crevassed terrain

view back to Bishorn


back to the meadows

Piz Linard (3414m)

Switzerland - Rätische Alps, highest mountain of Silvretta range, 21.8.13

Day tour from Lavin. Easy climb (partly steep with loose gravel, grade I)

view to Piz Linard

S-view with fog layer below

summit of Piz Linard

summit view to Ortler range

Fußstein (3381m)

Austria - Tirol, Zillertaler Alps, 22.8.13

Day tour, ascent from St. Jodok, SW-route, not easy (due to lost way), long and exposed climb in permanent shadow

(grade II when keeping ideal line) with some fresh snow, real rockfall danger (got small injury) !

morning view to Habicht

S-view to Marmolada

first view to Olperer

view back to upper saddle

summit view to Olperer

Fußstein summit

S-view to Möseler and Hochfeiler

view to Reichenspitz range

Piz Julier (3380m)

Switzerland - Graubünden, highest mountain of Güglia range, 24.8.13

Day tour, ascent from St. Moritz, easy climb with fixed ropes

ascent via Fuorcla Albana

Piz Ela to the N

summit view to Bergell range

summit view to N

summit view to Piz Palü

view to Bernina range

view to Bernina range

view to Piz Bernina

Ruthner Horn (3358m)

Italy - Südtirol, Rieserferner range, 30.8.13

Day tour from Rain, crossing of Fernerköpfl (3249m) and detour to Magerstein (3273m), easy climb with fixed rope, but often deep fresh snow.

ascent with view to Magerstein

view from Fernerköpfl to S

view to Hochgall

view to Venediger range

Ruthner Horn (or Schneebiger Nock) summit

back to Fernerköpfl

N-view to Ruthner Horn from Magerstein

view to Hochgall

Lasörling (3098m)

Italy - Südtirol, highest mountain of Lasörling range, 31.8.13

Day tour from Prägraten, easy climp, slightly exposed, partly fixed rope, detour to SE-summit (3055m)

view to Venediger

route to the summit

main summit seen from SE summit

avalanche remnant above river

Cima Brenta (3151m) - Cima Mandron (3040) - Cima Tosa (3173m)

Italy - Trentino, C.Tosa highest mountain of the Brenta range, 3.9.-5.9.13

3 day tour, crossing of Brenta range following famous fixed rope routes, Groste Pass toVallesinella. day: driving to Madonna d. Camp., cable car to Groste Pass, Via Benini to Cima Falkner (2999m), easy (grade I),                                          

      climbing Cima Brenta E summit (3110m) from Bocchette Alte fixed rope route, easy climb (grade I-II),                                                      

     climbing Cima Brenta (3151m), difficult and exposed climb due to Glacier retreat (grade II+ down to gap, vertical rock Grade III out of gap),

crossing of Cima Brenta W (3124m), detour to first Kiene Tower (3036m), climbing Cima Mandron (3040m),                                      

         detour to second Kiene Tower (3021m) and back to C.Brenta W (all easy climbs grade I-II, but loose rock), tent night near top of C.Brenta W. day: crossing back to C. Brenta, rappelling into gap, then via C.Brenta E down to Bocchette Alte, short detour to Spallone dei Massodi (3004m),

         Bocc. di Molveno, Bocc. di Brenta, Sent. Brentari, climbing Cima Tosa (easy but one steep and exposed chimney grade II), tent night near top. day: rappelling down to Sent. Brentari, Bocc. d. Ambiéz (steep fixed rope routes), long way down to Vallesinella, driving home.                        

view to Cima Brenta from Cima Falkner summit

alpine flowers

on Sent. Benini

on Sent. Bocchette Alte

Kiene Towers

main summit of Cima Brenta

crossing to W-summit (left)

view to Cima Mandron

on the way to Cima Mandron

summit of Cima Mandron

panoramic view from Cima Mandron,

Cima Brenta (left) to Cima Tosa (right)

view down to Cima Falkner and Groste Pass far behind

route for next morning-S.d.Massodi to C.d.Armi

sunset behind Adamello range

sunrise view to Presanella

Cima Tosa to the S, place for next tent night

Crozzon di Brenta

back to Bocchette Alte

view back to Cima Brenta

Sentiero Bocchette Alte

Sentiero Bocchette Alte

Bocca di Massodi

Torre di Brenta and C. Tosa

Sentiero Bocchette Centrale

Sentiero Bocchette Centrale

Cima Brenta alta and Campanile Basso

Campanile Basso

Rif. T. Pedrotti

Alpine poppy

Cima Brenta bassa

Cima Tosa ascent

C. Tosa summit view to W

Cima Tosa summit

view to Crozzon di Brenta

S-view, route for next morning below


Cima d´Ambiez

Crozzon di Brenta

view back to Cima Brenta

Crozzon di Brenta

sunset behind Adamello range

Cima Vallon at sunrise

C. Ambiez and C. Vallon

Cima Tosa summit

view to Presanella

Campanile Basso

Sentiero Brentari

Sentiero Brentari

C. Ambiez with Sentiero dell´Ideale to the right

view back to Sentiero Brentari

Cima dell' Uomo (3010m)

Italy - Dolomites, Marmolada range, 14.9.13

Day tour, ascent from Pellegrino Pass via S-wall, afterward crossing OmGran (2810m) and directly down to S, easy climb (grade I+) but steep gravel at the beginning of S-wall.

Langkofel range in first sunlight

Cima dell'Uomo S-wall

summit view to Marmolada S-wall

summit view Langkofel range

view to Sorapiss, Antelao and Pelmo

view to Piz Boe and Vernell range

Cima dell'Uomo summit

Langkofel range while driving home

Monte Mulaz (2906m) - Cima d. Bureloni (3130m)

Italy - Dolomites, Pala range 21.9. - 22.9.13, 2 day tour. day: ascent from Val Venegia to Monte Mulaz, back and via Passo d. Farangole to Le Ziroccole (3058m), (easy climb grade I-II),

             then Cima Bureloni (easy climb, but partly icy and exposed) and back to Le Ziroccole, tent night a few meters below summit. day: descent via P. d. Farangole to Val Venegia                                                                                                                     

Passo d. Farangole (mid of image)

Monte Mulaz

panoramic view of Pala range

from Monte Mulaz summit

view to Monte Agner

panoramic view

from Le Ziroccole summit,

Cima di Vezzana (left) and

Cima d. Bureloni (right)

view back to Le Ziroccole

Le Ziroccole, C. Vezzana, C. della Pala

view back to Le Ziroccole

view to Monte Agner

Pala di S. Martino

view to Civetta range

Tofana range behind

night view to SE with Orion constellation

morning colors

morning colors


first sunlight

panoramic view from Le Ziroccole summit,

C. di Vezzana (left) and Cima d. Bureloni

SW view

spot on Rosengarten range

Cima di Valgrande

Sorapiss and Pelmo behind


view back from Val Venegia

Hohe Klammerköpfe (3163m)

Austria - Hohe Tauern, Schobergruppe, 28.9.13

Day tour, ascent from Seichenbrunn via Nied. Gradenscharte, crossing of Östl. H. Klammerkopf (3153m), H. Klammerkopf (3163m),

           Westl. H. Klammerkopf (3126m), Südl. H. Klammerkopf (3117m), easy climb (grade I, ridge between W- and S-summit II+).

N. Gradensch. with Petzeck behind

view to W- and S-summit from main summit

panoramic view of Petzeck range,

rock glacier above Gradensee

ridge between W- and S-summit

Friedrichskopf and Petzeck

view back to W-summit

Gradensee below

Hochschober with colors of Fall

Weißspitze (3300m)

Austria - Hohe Tauern, Venediger range, 3.10.13

Day tour, ascent from Prägraten, SW-ascent snowy near top, easy climb.

morning view to Lasörling

morning view to Lasörling

Weißspitze ahead

Weißspitze summit

summit view to Venediger

view to Säulkopf

descent via Eissee

Eissee lake

Tajaköpfe (2450m)

Austria - Tirol, Mieminger range, 1.11.13

Day tour, ascent from Ehrwald, Vorderer Tajakopf (2450m), crossing to Hinterer Tajakopf (2408m), easy climb due to partly fixed rope.

morning view to W

view to Zugspitze

view to Grünstein


Karkopf (2469m)

Austria - Tirol, Mieminger range, 8.11.13

Day tour, ascent from Telfs, very snowy, trail buried by fresh snow, no foottraces, easy climb, partly steep.

young cornice

view to Hohe Munde

near summit

colors of Fall

Schellschlicht (2053m)

Germany - Bavaria, Ammergauer Alps, 31.12.13

Day tour, ascent from Griesen, snowy summit ridge, trail buried by snow, easy climb, slightly exposed.

summit ridge

W view from summit

view to Zugspitze

Zugspitze, Mieminger, Daniel